Eating ourselves into oblivion

When: 04/02/2011

Where: Prague, Czech Republic

Stayed: Residence Santini

It’s a well known fact that budget airlines attracts a unique breed of human life. Pushy, angry, loud and quite often a bit smelly. After travelling on the cheap several times we’ve since decided the discounted tickets are grossly overrated. Trading off your ‘happy holiday place’ in order to save a few bucks generally does not amount to a relaxing start to your trip.

Fighting for your seat is bad enough but to then go 10 rounds in order to stow your bag in the very spot someone else would like their jacket screwed up, doesn’t do much for the stress levels. It never ceases to amaze me the size and nature of some of the luggage passengers think will fit in the overhead compartments. You have to admire the persistence and conviction shown by people when faced with the prospect of having to pay an additional £18 to check their bag. One tattooed, crest baring passenger from Essex summed up the general feeling as we sat watching the chaos around us: “It’s a fookn bunfight this Easyjet business i’n it? Easy Jet, Ryan air yuse are all the same – hate yuse all”. Yes, so do we a lot of the time.
We announced our arrival in the silent city of Prague around 5pm by wheeling our bags along the dark cobblestone streets. “Thieves and pickpockets come and get us – WE ARE TOURISTS” our bags shouted to all those within 5 square kms.Despite our bells and whistles arrival we made it safely to our hotel. A lovely little boutique called Santini Residence about 10mins walk from Malostranska metro station; in the vicinity of Prague Castle. Our room was warm and filled with character. It was also filled with multiple low hanging beams which proved to be a hazard for those of us prone to walking into things. Sure enough, I managed to smack my head on the beams 4 times over the next few days. I considered this to be a good result given decapitation may not have been completely out of the question had I sat up quickly in bed.

A new camera in tow we didn’t waste any time in hot footing it down to Charles Bridge on the first night. Not knowing the significance of it at the time (it was built in 1357 for King Charles IV), we just marvelled at the spectacular view. Shrouded in darkness and a light mist with very few people around, the scene looked a little like something out of a Harry Potter movie. The strategically placed lamps dotting the 516m bridge, the alley of baroque style statues lining either side and the mournful tones of a lone violin created a somewhat eerie setting. Feeling intrigued by this peaceful city we couldn’t wait to learn some of the history.

Our questions were answered the next day by a walking tour guide; a local who insisted on carrying around a TV antenna with a yellow flag attached. This was to ensure we never lost sight of her despite there being a grand total of 4 people in the group… Nevertheless, she was very well informed and brought us up to speed on the history of the city. It’s incredible to think just how recent the turbulence in the city has been with communism only wiped out in the late 80’s. Almost a decade in Prague’s history seems to be characterized by public demonstrations. The heartbreaking stories of students burning themselves to death in protest also give you the feeling the city’s wounds a still quite raw.
The recent demolition of the 15m high statue of Stalin was swept under the carpet with most Czeck people ashamed to have had such a beastly criminal who wreaked havoc on their city on display. In it’s place stands a metronome which is a constant reminder to the Czeck people that nothing is set in stone and that to retain balance the city must constantly evolve.

In true holiday style we spent the majority of our stay in Prague sitting in cafes and restaurants. First stop was a luxurious meal at La Degustation. A Czeck menu with local wines to compliment set the tone for a lavish meal which included 7 Amuse Bouches and 7 courses. We calculated 20 different glasses used between the two of us – no wonder the glass shining guy in the corner didn’t stop for the 4 hours we were there. This meal pushed us out of our comfort zone with snails, beef tongue, quail eggs and foam six ways to name a few additions to the eating repertoire. The following night we had an equally impressive meal at Phenix restaurant. The only downside being the local Czeck Digestive which brought tears to our eyes. You know you’re in trouble when the alcohol content of a drink comes with a fire hazard attached! Café Savoy, Café Slavia, Louvre Café and the Artisan café were other highlights on the cafe rotation. The biggest surprise package on our café hop was the fact that smoking is still permitted indoors in Prague. Not realising this was the case, I drew myself up with my best ‘Steve Prior’ teacher face ready to scold the first smoker I came across. I promptly realised that another 4 tables were smoking at this particular café and tucked away my knee high socks in defeat.

Prague castle (largest castle in the world) is the main attraction on any self respecting tourist’s itinerary. We did our box ticking bit and diligently climbed the 289 steps to the top of South Tower to take in the cracking views of the city. The Old Town, the New Town, the Jewish Quarter and the Lesser Town are distinct regions on the map but appear as a series of terra cotta roof tops; with only the Vltava river dividing the city.
There is definitely something majestic about the city of Prague which is home to around 1.3m people. It has been through gut wrenching human rights devastation and numerous religious battles but the locals talk about the history with pride. Probably not overly surprising to learn that only 40% of the locals are religious today however…

Top 10 for Prague:

  1. A digestive akin to petrol does not perform any kind of healthy digestive function
  2. An antenna and yellow flag flying high are not required when your tour group consists of 4 people
  3. Cobblestone streets are idyllic but quite unfriendly to the wheels on your bag.
  4. There’s nothing wrong with spending more time eating than all other activities combined…is there?!
  5. Smoking is still permitted in eating areas in Prague – don’t bother trying to guilt people into stubbing out
  6. Snails don’t have a distinctive flavour…if anything perhaps a bit like chewing on a tasty rubber hair band
  7. Having 1000 kc doesn’t mean you have a lot of money
  8. There are almost as many Thai massage clinics in Prague as there are in Phuket… could this be related to the number of CHAV bucks parties???
  9. Prague airport to the city is the most cost efficient travel in all of Europe – approximately £3!
  10. Travel budget airlines at own risk

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