When: 27/2/2013 – 2/3/2013 Where: Reykjavik, Iceland Stayed: Fosshotel Baron
Our biggest regret when it comes to Reykjavik is that we didn’t stay longer. Four days felt like scratching the tip of one of their awe inspiring glaciers that we didn’t have enough time to see. Although it’s a small city (c200K) – probably more like a country town compared with other European cities – its packed full of personality, charm and adventure.
We purchased a package deal with Iceland Air for our trip which included flights, hotel, transfers and a Northern lights expedition. This was a convenient and cost effective option if you’re happy to stay in a shoe box with no natural light and a shower that doesn’t provide elbow room for washing your hair. Hmmmm not ideal. Fortunately we were able to upgrade to a studio apartment so not all was lost – a good watch out for new punters however.
Reykjavik, the world’s most northerly capital, literally means ‘bay of smoke’ – named as such after the early settlers saw plumes of steam coming from the ground. These are actually geothermal vents which today are used to fuel many state of the art geothermal pools and spas across the city (in addition to providing energy and heating to houses). The most famous of these is the Blue Lagoon which is set amongst the lava fields. The Lagoon consists of 6 million liters of geothermal sea water – basically a gazillion tones of milky, super therapeutic water that seeps into your muscles and almost sends you comatose. Total bliss and no great surprise that Natural Geographic has added it to the list of the 25 wonders of the world.
The landscape surrounding Reykjavik is completely foreign and feels a little bit out of this world. Shaped by centuries of earth quakes and volcanic eruptions, it’s looks more like something you’d see as backdrop to an Alien movie. If you did nothing other than drive around the Golden Circle in Iceland you’d still leave feeling pretty chuffed about your experience.
Mother Nature was very poorly behaved throughout our entire trip save for a 4 hour window (more on that later). Constant rain and gail force winds meant the temperature felt significantly colder than it actually was. It was pretty easy to see who the tourists were walking around the city – those who persisted with umbrellas (aka us) versus those who don’t even bother trying anymore. The city itself was clean, friendly, incredibly modern and had a fantastic cafe and restaurant culture. Laugavegur was the main drag and it offered a plethora of eateries and boutique shops including more jumpers in the traditional Icelandic design than you could poke a stick at. (Otherwise known as the type of jumper you might consider wearing on Christmas jumper day at work. BUT exceptionally warm and cosy.)
We sampled many of the cafes including C for Cookie, Laundromat cafe and Grilled Market for dinner. Fortunately we’d timed our arrival with the Food and Fun festival which turned out to be a stroke of genius. The festival involves world renowned chefs working with local restauranters to create a fusion of flavours using local ingredients. The meal we had at Grilled market was absolutely outstanding and rates as one of the best. The fact that 2 tenors serenaded the room for part of the night just made the experience that bit more special. The only low point (for some of us) came when Justin mistakenly asked the chef if he was from Finland…..ahem, where are we my darling?!
With access to so many phenomenal natural wonders of the world, we were champing at the bit to get our ‘adventure pants’ on. The bus tour out to Gulfoss (mind blowing waterfall that rivals Niagra falls in power) and Geysir (the King of all spouting hot springs) was impressive and memorable.
However it was the Northern Lights expedition that we’ll remember most vividly for years to come. Let’s face it, you’d be pretty shattered to go all the way to Iceland and not see the Northern Lights. For us, it was the main reason we booked the trip in the first place. With horrific weather on the first night it was no great surprise to hear the tour had been cancelled. Fortunately a window of clear skies was due to open the following evening and the tour operator summoned every tourist in the city (well it felt like it). We all duly rugged up, tussled for a good position on the bus and sat back waiting for the light show to begin.
The tour guide gave us an explanation of the Northern lights (aurora borealis) and was mid sentence – explaining how the natural light displays result from the collision of charged particles with atoms – when he abruptly stopped and started shouting at us to look out the window. ‘1 o’clock, 1 o’clock, 1 o’clock Northern lights, Northern lights!’ I don’t think I’ve seen so many people simultaneously go into panic mode since I last watched the sinking scene from the Titanic! A flurry of arms and legs, coats, beanies and cameras with only a sense of calm reinstated once it became clear there were only so many faces that could be pressed up against the windows. Nevertheless, the natural light show was most certainly in action and fortunately the bus found somewhere to stop before there was any serious carnage.
It’s easy to see why chasing the Northern Lights could become somewhat of an obsession. Up to the minute weather and solar activity help the hunting process, but really, no one has any idea whether they’ll be graced by the display or not. Luckily we saw a mixture of discrete (more defined) and diffuse (spread out) displays across a spectrum of fluorescent green, yellow and orange. We stood outside in freezing conditions with our necks aching and bladders bursting but unable to move for fear of missing the best part of the show. Despite our luck, I still couldn’t drown out the little voice that queried whether it got any better and perhaps if you were further out of the city they might be even more vivid… tough crowd I know… 
All in all we had an incredible trip to Iceland – one that well and truly lived up to it’s greatly hyped reputation. We came home feeling 3 feet taller after our invigorating experience – even Justin leaving the iPad on the bus at the airport and subsequently sprinting at full tilt to chase it down didn’t dampen our spirits. I credit the super clean air and therapeutic water for keeping my blood pressure down.
Cathy & Justin Abroad 